July 25, 2007
Pedaling the Land
of Moose Drool

“Rolling, rolling, rolling on the river”

So sang Credence Clearwater Revival lead vocalist John Fogerty and the geezer cycling group spent last week rolling their bicycle beside the rivers of Idaho and Montana.  It was a blistering hot but oh so wonderful eight days spent navigating “Big Sky” roads that wended their way beside the Salmon, the Clearwater, the Lochsa, the Bitterroot and the Beaverhead, streams that babble and rush through some of the most awesome terrain in the lower 48. 

The Beancounter, Big Gear Bob, the Judge, the Doc and this kid pedaled from Grangeville, Idaho to Virginia City, Montana.  Covering in excess of 400 miles, we climbed over 8,000 feet, spending hours in the saddle on days where the thermometer continually flirted with triple digits. 

We were blessed with an expanded support crew this year as “Fantastic” Sam and The Razorback joined Blackwater Jack and the Evil Twin to pilot our motor home mother ship and minister to rider needs.  

Of course the increased heat required riders to constantly hydrate.  While younger athletes fuel their liquid needs with the likes of Gator-Aid or water, the well seasoned geezer athlete knows that sport drinks and H2O quench in a pinch but nothing equals the thirst slaking quality of an ice cold beer.  Or beers.  

Twenty miles into the first day, with fresh legs but feeling the effect of climbing temperatures, a breakfast stop in Kooskia, Idaho displayed a message from heaven.  Actually, it was hanging on the wall but the words themselves seemed a commandment to the thirsty, “75-cent Bud’s before 10:00 a.m.” All agreed we’d picked a great route.  And the scenery was nice too. 

Not that the backloads of Montana and Idaho provided frequent stops.  The 75-mile ride through the Selway-Biitteroot Wilderness area was barren of a single commercial establishment.  But when riders did hit civilization there were ample opportunities to make up for lost time. 

In a Missoula back alley one could walk no more than 25 feet and pass through the welcoming back doors of the Rhinoceros Bar (yes, there was a rhino head hanging from the wall), the Top Hat, the Stage Door and the Mo Bar (home of Montana’s best burgers).  

Hamilton, Montana’s Rainbow Bar had Bloody Marys to die for plus over the tap displayed a bumper sticker that had been sold as a fundraiser for the Hamilton Volunteer Fire Department.  In bold letters it asked, “Have You Hugged Your Hose Today?”  Sadly, no more stickers were available, the bartender saying the entire stock sold out in one day.  Maybe there’s one for sale on E-Bay. 

Montanans go out of their way to please. 

At the front desk of a Jackson Hot Springs (pop 50) motel, an inquiry was made about wi-fi.  Said the clerk with a smile “We don’t have it but sit on the front step, you can use the signal from the garage across the street.”  And so I did, sitting in the dusk of a Montana evening, swatting mosquitoes and answering e-mail. Top that Ritz-Carlton or Westin. 

A limited discussion took place about next year’s route.  Most riders were of the opinion that while a cold beer and incredible scenery are a great combination maybe it’s time to test ourselves and pedal somewhere more remote, a place out on the edge of civilization.  So next summer it looks like we’ll ride across Nebraska.